Thursday, June 5, 2014

Dhal Bhat

The day has come to give an entire post dedicated to dhal bhat. There really isn't much to say about it. Google what dhal bhat is for a more detailed explanation, but, in general it is plain white rice with some sort of a soupy mixture poured over top. The soupy stuff has some flavor but not much. It comes in a bunch of varieties, but here, you make a large batch and use it until it is gone. Dhal bhat is eaten twice a day everyday here. Without fail. It isn't bad, nor is it particularly good. After you've had it a week straight though... well you want to die a little inside.

Tonight at dinner two of my lovely Canadian housemates and I discussed Tim Hortons and Dunkin Donuts. Don't worry there is a Dunkin Donuts nearby... in Pakistan. So we joked deliriously about how we would get our visas and try to cross the Indian border into Pakistan and write on our customs forms "We came for Dunkin Donuts."

The day was long, but good. Nothing special nothing awful or fancy or too exciting or anything. Just life in Kathmandu as per usual. It is funny how the culture shock wares off without you realizing. I had a "pinch myself"moment on the motorcycle today of like holy crap you're in Nepal right now.

It is still scary and big and the bus system makes no sense, but, I will get there. For now getting lost is alright.

Garmi

The reality is: it is hot.

There is no way around the heat.

It is hot.

Water is all warm.

Thirst is real.

Heat is real.

Sweat is constant.

Sweat is real.

Garmi means hot weather in Nepali.

Welcome (Swagatam) to Kathmandu in June.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

Momos and Laughter

Okay so wait... maybe todayyy was one of the best days of my life also...

I started my day with my Nepali language lesson... Nepali is weird, and hard, and confusing, but easy but weird. I have a few words I did learn though and it was really fun because I could pick them out of different conversations I heard today.

Piro is spicy
Masu is meat
Ek is one
... yep that is all I remember right now, but hey, I'm getting there.

More motorcycle riding with Ram (I upgraded to a helmet today), lots of walking and exploring with Sam, one of the Canadians living here right now, and I got to sit in on a photo lesson.

Some people come to this program just to learn the basics of photography, so I had nothing else to do while two students took their lesson today so Ram let me help teach it. I chimed in when I thought further explanation might help! It's always fun to go back to the basics.

I had some really long and wonderful chats with Ram today. We talked mostly about journalism and photography (an easy topic for the two of us) and I learned so much about the experiences he's had in his career and what he's learned from them. We talked about projects I'd like to work on while I'm here and he actually got me in contact with a really awesome organization already and we went there today so he could introduce me and explain for me in Nepali who I am and why I would be there. We talked a lot about another project I'm going to attempt and his experience with it as well.

We bumped into another important local photographer on our walk through this ancient village and so Ram was able to introduce me. We talked for a bit and I got his information too. It's so interesting to see the community of journalist here and how excited they are to assist us.

So, after biking and learning more about the situations in the area and the origins of a lot of the culture and stoping for photos, we stopped and had Momos and Masa for dinner. Today I tried my very first Momo. It is a day I will never forget. I will never forget the first Momo I ever ate not even after I eat ten zillion more. I love Momos. If you've never had a Momo I strongly encourage you to get off your butt, stop reading this blog immediately and go get yourself some Momos.

...

Good hunh?! (If you didn't eat a Momo yet and are continuing to read I want you to know that I'm disappointed.) Anyway-- I've been here just five days. In those five days I've been told about five or maybe six times how Nepali I seem. I've been told I look Nepali, I act Nepali in my body language, gestures, eye movement, and my personal favorite- my laughter. This leads me to the story of how I discovered Nepal is unique, Nepal is wonderful, and Nepal is happy.

Walking down the streets today with Sam it finally clicked with me what was so strange about this place. The streets are a mess, traffic is a mess, hell- the government is a mess, but I've yet to see one sad or angry Nepali. Yes, it's only been five days, but these people, they seem an odd type of resilient. It's not fancy jobs or homes or shoes or cars that makes them happy. It's visiting the temple in the evening, its sharing a cup of masa with a friend, its just life, the smell, the taste, the sound of life; these people are happy.

So, during my dinner with Ram we talked at first about photojournalism. Then we transitioned into talking about life. We talked about what it means to be happy and all of this crazy prophetic stuff that to him just made such sense and to me is just so foreign. It is a beautiful culture. It is beautiful because they smile. It is beautiful because they laugh. If it is my laughter that makes these people think I resemble their culture, I'm going to go ahead and say what a wonderful culture it is.

Monday, June 2, 2014

Motorcycle Diaries

I've been thinking all night long of how to put words to my day yesterday. The amount of things I saw yesterday for the first time in my life, in person was nearly endless. After I got back from my first motorcycle ride I ate lunch and then sat around reading for a bit. At 5:00 pm Ram my supervisor picked me up again and we headed out.

The point of the second trip was to head out of the city center so that he could show me where the Kathmandu Post building is located. After that we went to a zillion places, stopped on hillsides next to monasteries to watch the sunset over the valley. I saw Monks, monkeys, baby monkeys, goats, cows just chilling in the middle of the highway, Boudhanath Temple (we walked all around and inside buildings), children playing cricket, children playing soccer, children flying kites, prayer wheels, naked dirty children, polluted rivers, many police men, old women in beautiful clothing, I saw the world. But I heard something too--- on top of the massive hill, up next to a buddhist monastery there was a small building out of which bellowed Miley Cyrus's latest album Bangerz. Proving that this place is such a conglomeration of new and old... mostly old. It was a really awesome way to get to see the city, down the back roads and with a local; I just got to sit and soak it all up, trying to remember every detail on the way so I could return, by myself, with a camera.

Ram is already joking about teaching me to drive the motorcycle so he can sight see-- no worries mom and dad, I told him what an awful idea that would be.

I got home just in time for dinner of the forevermore lovely Dhal Bhat. We sat outside on the roof top where its a bit cooler (the kitchen is the top floor). Sitting outside at 7:30 pm is interesting here because Kathmandu has no street lights, so when the sun sets everything goes extremely extremely dark. And, for being in a capitol city its a unique sight to see.

I had a conversation with my host mom, Shila, about the mosquitos from back home after she apologized for them while we sat outside... you know all two of them that were around at the time. She was surprised to hear that we have many more back home.

There was just so much more that my eyes saw that I could explain. So many photograph in my mind that I hope will stay forever.

As a whole: Day Three was a hit.

UPDATE:

I have gone on my first motorcycle ride... I repeat I rode on the back of a motorcycle today and got a tour of town. I'm pretty sure I was in a movie. Not to be such a girl, and a 90s girl at that but- you know the scene from the Lizzie McGuire movie when she rides on the back of Paolo's motorcycle? That was me today. Except I'm not in high school, I'm not in Italy, and I was holding onto my internship program coordinator not a "famous pop star" boyfriend. I'm living the dream though really... Now I'd just like to meet people from the Post and take some photos!

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Muskan and Tommy

Getting situated here where everything is so different can be quite the task. Especially when your sleep schedule is so messed up.

I've moved in with my host family and my first day was pretty relaxing. I was able to sleep for a bit, journal and read all after taking a tour of this huge house. I've already fallen in love with the small white fluffy dog named Tommy, he licks everything he can touch and coats the entire house in his white fur.

Muskan, my host sister is nine-years-old and it is quite clear that she's grown up in a home open to strangers coming and going. She is extremely not shy and had no problem coming right into my room yesterday and sitting on my bed bringing Tommy along with her of course. After a touch of confusion when she asked me in her broken, heavily accented, English if I was "free" I realized she was asking if I was busy or not, not whether or not I was enslaved. Those of you who really know me probably find the hysteria in my mind instantly going toward thoughts of slavery. (I'm involved in a lot of causes working to bring awareness to and ending Modern Day Slavery and Human Trafficking.) Anywho- She wasn't sure if I had to work or anything but once I realized her question I told her just how "free" I was. This response prompted an excited invitation to do a puzzle with her, either 100 piece Dora the Explorer or 60 piece Tom and Jerry. She insisted I choose. We ended up doing the Dora puzzle together which led to quite the humorous situation of every time I found a piece she would pat my head twice and say "good job"... over... and over... and over. She's a bossy little thing, hopefully it gets her somewhere in life.

I still think it'd be easy for me to get lost in this house so many ups and downs and curves and turns. I'm really looking forward to purchasing a cell phone and figuring the transportation out.

Today is supposed to be the first day of my internship so we will see how that all plays out. I'm concerned that culturally they don't fully understand a commitment. I'm pretty determined to get what I want here. I think I'm going to start looking into personal projects I can do here on my own time-- any suggestions???

Breakfast is soon and I'm sitting in my room which overlooks the front gate watching Muskan hop on the back of her father's motorcycle in her school uniform, back pack and all, off on her way to school.

I have high hopes that things keep getting better. I've yet to get sick so that's a plus... (don't worry I just knocked on some wood.)

Finally........

Well lets start with: I'm finally here!
I also finally got internet connection just now.
I am so beyond exhausted. I woke up at 4:30 this morning because I had gone to bed so early I couldn't possibly sleep any longer. Well now as my body's clock is super out of wack I'm just plain and simple: exhausted.

My first night I stayed at a hostel. I ate dinner and then crashed at 7:30 pm. I woke up in time for breakfast of crepes and chai. I met a bunch of people traveling also with IFRE, some not. They seemed to have gotten to travel a lot while they were here and had learned a lot about getting around, which seemed encouraging because this place is huge! Like massive. Like take Oaxaca and multiply it by at least ten. Or at least thats what it feels like.

Well I'll write a better more detail filled blog when I have more time and energy. For right now I have to go eat dinner and then I'm hoping sleep.